Author - Susmita Mukhopadhyay | Category - Adventure, Himalayas, Travel, Trekking | June 19, 2011

Since last few days I am again feeling my immense attraction towards Himalayas. It’s tough to resist my feelings. I have to find something that allows me to connect with Himalayas. Hence I have started recollecting the memories of my last year visits to Himalayas and decided to pen down my experiences which is the best possible way to express my feelings. Here we go.
Last year we visited the gorgeous Sikkim. Our target was to reach Gurudongmar Lake which is one of the highest lakes in the world, located at an altitude of 17,100 ft (5,210 m).

We started from Kolkata on 14th October’2010. We reached at Bagdogra around 2 pm. We were picked up and headed for Gangtok. It was a long tiring journey. The temperature difference was extremely sharp. At Bagdogra you may even feel the temperature is higher than Kolkata. But soon you will cross the Sevoke you will feel the sharp decline in temperature.

Hence it is strongly recommended that please keep the car window closed until you are accustomed with the temperature. Otherwise you goanna be a sufferer of bad headache. I must say that the last year, road conditions were pretty bad on few areas and those patches made our journey more tiring and lengthier. At the same time the thin serpentine road on the lap of the lower Himalaya was truly scary. If you are Acrophobia-tic please do not look down.

But everything will be solaced by the road side greenery and with the constant companion of the river Tista. It seemed to me that Tista was assigned to cut the mountain wall and to bring life to the plain. The look of Tista with its silvery sandy banks and with glittering waters with setting sunrays was awesome. At the foothill of Himalaya Tista was looking like a silky whitish-brown ribbon and as if it was there to prettify our beautiful mother earth. The beauty of nature was overwhelming and indescribable. I soaked me in the freshness of the basic elements of nature – Air, Water, Earth.

Slowly darkness prevailed all across, and we continued our journey towards Gangtok. We reached Gangtok around 7 pm checked in hotel Silverline located at Tibet road. After entering into the room I settled myself within a blanket and ordered for hot chicken soup. Sankho took shower to freshen himself and that was a mistake, soon after he was having very bad headache. Next day morning he woke up with temperature, body ache and with acute cough problem.

If you are reading this blog right now, please note that do not take bath immediately once you reached Gangtok. First get yourself accustomed with the temperature differences, and then act accordingly. It’s not necessary that you will also face the same problem, but as a precautionary measure you should always keep these points on your mind.

Road side Greenery while approaching Gangtok Teesta River Green-backed Tit Way to Rumtek

15th October’2010 we planned to hang around Gangtok. We visited Rumtek monastery, Banjhakri falls, Tashi view point, Hanuman Tak, Ganesh Tak and moved little here & there before we came back to our hotel.

16th October’ 2010 we woke up at around 8 am in the morning. I parted the window curtains and wept seeing the outside. It was raining heavily. We waited for the right time to move out. After a while we realised we need to start else we will be late. Before we leave the hotel, I got to see the glimpses of a beautiful tiny Green-backed Tit. I was fortunate enough to capture it in my camera.

We headed for north Sikkim. Our destiny was Lachen. It was a damn bad gloomy and rainy day. Continuous rain made the day cold enough. On the way we crossed few famous places like seven Sister’s Water Falls, Mangan, Singhik and Chungthan along with few not so popular places but still very beautiful in their own way. We had our lunch in a roadside restaurant. In north Sikkim, every restaurant runs by local people and they will serve food which is cooked for their own family members. Hence taste and freshness is guaranteed. I cannot remember the name of the place where we had our lunch but I can remember that I had seen a beautiful Common Green magpie there, but I was unable to take a photo of it. We left that unknown beautiful place. Lastly we crossed a place where we needed to submit our identity proof. Remember, to visit north Sikkim; you need to carry your passport size photographs and your identity proof. After we crossed the check post soon after darkness prevailed and we could see nothing beyond the range of the car’s headlights. Only we could understand that we were entering greater Himalayan range and in more dense forest. We reached lachen at around 8 pm. It was pretty cold there. The temperature was almost around 7 to 8 degree Celsius. Lachen is a place situated at 9800 ft above the sea level. Rains continued with biting colds. We had our dinner soon and slept early, as it was told to us that we need to reach Gurudongmar early preferably even before 10 am. Because more the temperatures go up in the Gurudongmar Lake area stony wind starts blowing. Next day we were supposed to start at 4 am morning.

It was 17th October’2010 at 3 am. I got up. It was extremely cold and dark outside. Sankho got up little late and that was the early sign of problems, which I realized soon later. I got ready. I was dressed up in layers. You can say base layer, middle layer and the top layer.

Well base layer included the clothes that were in direct contact of your skins, it was apart from the UGs, spaghetti tops and tight leggings. Middle layer consisted of tight T-shirt and tight jeans along with a tight woolen sweater. Top layer consisted of a Jacket. Apart from all these I covered my feet with two layers of woolen socks and trekking shoe and had had a good woolen hat cap. Believe my words, all those layers really kept me warmed all along the road. If you are noting down my tips then don’t forget to carry a good quality eye glasses.

On the contrary, Sankho was not so prepared. He took it lightly, and stated our journey towards Gurudongmar, only with a heavy jacket apart from his regular jeans and T-shirt. I made a mistake not to carry his stuff separately. Soon after we had started, we reached a place of 10,000 ft altitude. Sankho started telling it was extremely cold and he made a blunder by not taking additional warm clothes. Outside it was drizzling, and we continued our journey towards higher terrain in the dark.

Probably I won’t be able to express all of my feelings in words, because I don’t have any perfect words in my dictionary to explain the whole experiences. It was scary, attractive, dangerous and addictive. What else!!! Once you started you cannot stop. There cannot be any look back. I can still remember that the day before, from Singhik I saw a peak where I found snow started covering the peak, and during the journey I found suddenly, that stony masculine peak was just standing infront of me with its head up. I realised that the thin lines of snow were actually the snow layers covering the peak. I loved the way it was. It seemed to me that I was moving around my best boyfriend ‘Himalaya’ and he was looking at me with full of its curiosity. We crossed few terrible land slide areas. We experienced some traumatic scene.

Sankho started telling about his breathing trouble and he was restless. At around 8 am we reached Thangu Village. Thangu is a small mountain village with countable families. For us Thangu was a stopover place. I had light breakfast there with a cup of tea and breads. Sankho took drinks there, to resist the cold along with his breakfast. That was the second mistake by Sankho. You should not take alcohol while you are climbing up. When you are resting you can drink to keep yourself warm. Anyway mistakes are for learning and should not be forgotten.

At Thangu I saw lot of White capped water redstart. I took photos of them. The most incredible experience was the unforgettable hospitality shown by the village people. Hearts of those people were fresh, pure and strong like Himalaya. They were honest, friendly and helpful. I never had seen such lovely people. I wish I could stay there few more time, I could hang around in the valley, and I could lie down on the green meadow. I closed my eyes, took a deep breath, hold it for few seconds grabbed the essence and moved forward.

We started towards north. While leaving Thangu, a local man said that ‘uppar baraf girr raha hain’ that means snow started falling at higher altitude. We were continuously climbing up and realised soon after that we cannot see any more trees. It was all stony mountains covered with sticky green grass or moss. Soon after we realised we had entered a region where snow fall had already started. Where ever I looked at it was all white. We reached almost at height 15,000 ft. Sankho was in a bad situation. He had acute breathing trouble. I asked him whether to return, but he allowed me to continue. Sankho stopped talking. It was scary. All of a sudden I felt that we left the last localities far behind. We had almost finished three fourth of our journey. We were within the region of greater Himalaya. It was also a Himalayan plateau area. More we climbed up we entered deep inside the Himalayan plateau area. There was no road; it was a strange flat area. No sign of human being, no sign of any creatures. I was suffering from visual illusion. I was continuously within a dilemma that we have lost track. Sometime it seemed to me that we were suppose to follow the right side track, sometime it seemed to me we were supposed to follow the left side track. But in reality there was no sign of track. All were snow covered flat mountain base. On our two sides Himalaya was standing like great wall.

Rains continued, but it was heavier than before, because it was falling with tiny snowflakes. Everything was white all across. Right to left; top to bottom – snow and clouds with us all the time. We continued our journey. Sankho was in a pretty bad condition. I was scared as I need to depend on the Sherpa only at the same time I was worried for Sankho as well. But Sankho was desperate to reach the destination. I could understand his feelings. The whole year we usually waited for these days, to come up at Himalaya, and after that we cannot return with empty heart. So journey continued…

After a while suddenly we realised that the flat plateau area was no longer there, rather again we started climbing up and continued the same almost for 1 hour and finally reached a place, where our Sherpa looked at me and said ‘you move up’. He looked at Sankho and said ‘I will take care of him’. I looked at Sankho he was lying on the snow bed and uttered ‘Go ahead’.

I started all alone. From the back Sherpa said ‘do not waste your time, snow storm will start soon’. I stopped for a while, and then moved forward. I could see one other group was climbing up. But I could only see them as few moving points, not as human structure even. They were far ahead from me. I climbed up for 10 minutes, and then turned back, and from heart I felt I should not leave Sankho all alone. I was standing there for few moments with dilemma, whether to move forward for all desired Gurudongmar Lake or move backward. I descended to the base. I came closer to Sankho, and told him we will be back here again.

Approaching North Sikkim Crossing Singhik White-capped Water-redstart himalayan plateau

96 Comment

  • chameli roy says:

    when you have planned your next trip to gorodongmar? please let us know,we may plan accordingly.u know why? likeminded people are the best travel friends.

  • susmita says:

    Hi Chameli,

    Surely. I will let you know when we will plan for our next trip. Would you mind to share little more details about you. You can use the ‘Contact Me’ form.

  • Vacation News says:

    You have had a wonderful experience. I see from the photos the beauty and purity of nature. I am sure you will have another chance to go to Gurudongmar. You are lucky to have been in such wonderful places.

  • susmita says:

    Hi Vacation News thanks for your wishes.

  • Hemant says:

    Hi Susmita,
    Great detailed description…I almost felt that I am there…
    I am from Delhi, me (with my wife) were planning to go to Gurudongmar in the 2nd last week of October…but now I feel that May – June would be best to visit such places. May be we can restrict ourselves to West and South sikkim…thoughts?

  • susmita says:

    Hi Hemant,

    May – June will definitely be a good time to visit Sikkim, specially April/May is best for enjoying the beauty of Rhododendron but if you want to enjoy the beauty of snow covered Himalaya, then October will be a perfect time. However you can get detail idea about the same from any local travel agent. South Sikkim, I haven’t yet visited but yes west Sikkim is beautiful and you must explore.

    I would suggest that you must visit local villages, monasteries, so that you can know about the cultures and heritages of Sikkim.

    Sikkim is globally famous for its Flora and fauna hence exploring villages over there will be a great idea to get to know about Sikkim.


  • souvik says:

    Hello Sushmita, i came across your blog while making a trip plan of Kumayun (you have a story about vijaypur, which is a part of our itinerary). & yeah I loved reading it. It’s sad that you couldn’t make it to Gurudongmar Lake last time. I think the time chose for the trip wasn’t the best one. I suggest you should try your luck once again, if you haven’t made it already.
    I myself made it to Gurudongmar in the year 2010. Its hell of a place!
    You can find out the pictures in my blog soviek [dot] blogspot [dot] com

  • susmita says:

    Hey Souvik,

    Thanks for your comment.
    Also like your blog man. Nice one. Loved to see the mention of Mark Twain quotes – “Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things that you didnt do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

    Good photographs of Gurudongmar. Keep traveling, photographing and blogging.

    Best wishes Susmita

  • Amar Nath says:

    Hi Didi,
    Me and friends are planning to visit the places u have visited in the month of october probably 17th.
    Please tell that whether we will b getting snow there?and the mobile connection.

    Amar &friends.

  • Abhijit says:

    Nice stuff to read. I must let you know that I have been to Sikkim 5 times and the last time I finally made it to the Gurudongmer Lake. We went just after 2-3 months of the earthquake in Sikkim. Roads were terrible and we somehow managed to make our car to be the one of the three cars only allowed to visit the lake from Lachen.

    BDW I have send you a frends requst in FB. Just check it. Looking forward to more write-ups on travel.


  • Pritha says:

    We have planned a trip to gurudongmar lake and the old silk route.we are leaving on the 29th of october.its a bike trip.kolkata to kolkata(8 days).Primarily i thought to that i can resist the cold but after oing through sushmitas post ,i really am assured that i have to be loaded with woolen garments and heavy jackets.thanks sushmita.

  • Sudipta Sinha says:

    willing to visit the yumthung valley and gurudongmar lake in the last week of march. What do you suuggest?

  • susmita says:

    Hi Sudipta,

    You can always visit Yumthung and Gurudongmar lake in the last week of March. But make sure weather is fine.

  • arijit says:

    just loved ur experience .. we are visiting north sikkim in december january may be 31st dec to 2nd jan.. hopefully we can make it

  • Amar says:

    Interesting Story. Thanks for sharing.

    We plan to go there in month of April’13. My brother-in-law and his family too went there last year and also stayed in Silverline Hotel. I need your feedback about this hotel as we plan to stay there too.

  • Amar says:

    Is April is the best time to get to see snow. thanks

  • Shyam says:

    Hi Sushmita,

    We are also planning to visit North Sikkim( including Gurudongmar Lake and Zero Point) in the last week of March. Can we make it to that point in March. Also can we expect snow capped moutain during that time of the year (in atleast in Gurudongmar Lake or Zero Point). Any pointer on that can help us.

    Did you book any tour operator for your trip ?

  • s annamalai says:

    hi ms sushmitha
    ur article on ur trip to guru dongmar lake was fine i am also planning to visit the place in may 2013
    where can i stay in lachan kindly tell me
    is breathing difficult there as i have BP
    hope to hear from u

  • Puranjoy says:

    Hi Susmita,

    Excellent trip description. But its sad you have failed to complete. Best wishes for next trip.
    But, yes you can definitely knock me before making a trip plan. I have already driven from kolkata to reshi-dzuluk-kupup-gangtak and back. Done kolkata to hardwar-kedar-badri-nainital and back. Done kolkata to kalimpong-darjeeling-mirik and back.
    Now are planning to gudongmore-cholamu during may-13.
    Thanks with best wishes
    from my Team ( me , my wife , my daughter )

  • Surajhit Rudra says:

    Dear Madam, I am planning for North Sikim along with Gurudongmar in October. I Acquired a lot of information from this page but have some quarries regarding this trip.

    1. Is it advisable, to visit the place for a children of 6 years, as there is a chance of breathing problem in Gurudongmer.

    2.How long it takes from Lachen to Gurudongmar(One way).

    3. Is there any possibility of snowfall in the mid of October.

  • susmita says:

    Dear Mr. Rudra,

    I would suggest you not to visit Gurudongmer with your 6 years old kid. From Lachen to Gurudongmar it takes approximately 5+ hours & can be more than that considering the road condition & the unpredictable weather condition. Chances of snowfall in the mid of October is very less.

    Thanks – Susmita

  • Saurav Talukdar says:

    Hi Susmita,

    Read the blog and liked it extremely for its vivid description. But am feeling a bit nervous also considering that we have a program to visit Gurudomgmar on 14/15th of October. We too have 2 kids of 5.8 years and really am thinking whether to go ahead or whether to stay back at Lachen and let my other travelling partners to complete the journey.

    Earlier we had visited Nathula once (not with my children) and neither me, nor my wife face any problem whatsoever.

    Just wondering how about carrying oxygen jars and other medicines along to take care of the breathing problem and going ahead with the journey?

    Any suggestion?

  • susmita says:

    Hi Saurav,

    It’s nice to know that you have liked my blog. This will definitely encourage me to write more on my travel experiences.

    Regarding visiting Gurudongmar on 14/15th October, you shouldn’t have much problem. However you cannot predict the weather. When we visited during October, weather was too bad & I can remember weather changed its mood suddenly. Hence we cannot say in particular that how you are gonna face Gurudongmar during that period.

    I would suggest not to take your lill ones with you to visit Gurudongmar. I had seen few kids faced breathing & vomiting problem and they were in a pretty bad condition. Also kids will not be able to explain exactly what problem they are facing but obviously they will suffer.

    Also it’s strongly recommended you must carry required medicines while you are traveling. It will always help you and others in case of any emergency.

    With best wishes – Susmita

  • Sudip says:

    Susmita…just to know best time to visit gurudongmar/ it March April or October??

  • Sunil says:

    Hi Susmita
    Thanks for writing very detailed blog. It is really helpful. I am planing to go Gurudongmar next week that is last week of sep 2013. Earlier I was thinking to carry only one jacket but after reading your blog decided to carry lot more.
    Keep writing

  • susmita says:

    Hi Sunil,

    Good to know about your tour plan. Must carry warm clothes. It will help. Wish you all the best and please do share your experience with us as well.


  • susmita says:

    Hi Sudip,

    Best time to visit gurudongmar/yumthang… October or May/June.


  • Rakhi Dey says:

    Hi Susmita,

    Its very good to know your tour plan. Me and my friend are planning to go to Gurudongmar on 1st week of Nov. Is it safe to go? We r preferring a shared car. We will carry a lot of woolen clothes.

  • susmita says:

    Hi Rakhi,

    1st week of November will be cold enough. Enjoy!!!


  • Lakpa Sherpa says:

    Engrossing write up. We are planning a very very adventurous trip in the Dec this year to North Sikkim. Your blog have given us very vital info.Thanks

  • susmita says:

    Hey Lakpa!

    Keep going buddy! All the best!


  • Susmita says:

    Mam, Planning for Gurudongmar and Yumthang on 2nd week of December,2013 with my father in law ( age above 70 ), mother in law (60 ), my son (9). Any breathing problem in Gurudongmar and Yumthang .

  • susmita says:

    Hi Susmita,

    It’s nice to see that your name is also Susmita.

    To be frank December 2nd week will be too cold at Gurudongmar & Yumthung.

    Regarding facing problems there as you will be accompanied by aged persons and kids, I cannot say anything absolutely. Because high altitude problems may vary from person to person. I have seen young kids of age 10 – 12 facing breathing problem, whereas a lady of about 80 years was absolutely fine there. I had seen the opposite scenario as well.

    Hope you got my point.

    Enjoy your holiday.

  • Ebbin says:

    It was so nice to go through your experience in Sikkim – ”A failed trip to Gurudongmar”, and of course, I am sorry that you couldn’t accomplish your task. From your blog, I could trace out that your interest is photography. For me, although photography is not my keen interest, travel is passion, which in turn is so close to photography. I am Dr. Ebbin Jose, from Kerala (India), working in Africa for the past 14 years.

    Any ways, I am writing this mail with an intention to gather a better idea about Sikkim.
    As I wrote before, I love traveling. In most cases I prefer traveling by self-drive. I have a plan to visit Sikkim next year and had seen the snaps of Gurudongmar Lake. They were simply fabulous. Is it possible for me to drive a Tata Safari and reach Lake by myself? Do we need a guide for reaching the destination? Or, at least until Lachen can we drive by ourself and find a guide from Lachen to go with us until Gurudongmar?

  • susmita says:

    Hi Ebbin,

    Thanks for writing to me.

    It’s nice to know that you love travelling and you do it with your own car.

    Regarding driving I have no knowledge. The roads are scary there, so how easy it would be for someone who regularly do not drive in the mountain region is hard for me to mention.

    In this regard I would suggest you to take information from someone really knowledgeable in this field.


  • AJAY says:

    Read your blog and I am sure you will be seeing GURUDONGMAR LAKE earlier than later
    I am planning to go there on 3rd June .We have also been recommended to visit zero point by our tour operator .Do you have any idea about this place ? And any advice for our trip to Sikkim ? Also, regarding the breathing problems, do you have any suggestions on what we we can do to overcome them ?

    Thank you


  • Saurabh Bhattacharyya says:

    Very good description Susmita- really thrilling. This year, I am planning to visit Gurudongmaar Lake in the 1st week of April.

  • Avik says:

    Even we could not reach to Gurudongmar. Though it was way back in Dec 2005, but we had to come back as the lake water came to the roads and the roads became frozen. Had to come back about 1-2 kms before. :(

  • somnath says:

    Dear Susmita,

    Your rendition of the journey was truly pictographic. Hopefully, The Great Gurudongmar will allow you an appointment next time.
    I am planning a trip to Guru with 6 heads in 1st week of June.
    Please guide me on the inevitables and the mandatory dos and donts.


  • sunny roy says:

    is the weather of gurodongmar lake suitable for 4 years old child…

  • srikanta says:

    Hi sushmita;
    I want to visit with ur time bcoz of you are an experience person. In my family 3 heads. Mr & mrs .with 9 years old girl. So is it possible to go personally? Which time is idle time?! When you wl go? Thnx a lot….4 ur information.

  • susmita says:

    Dear Mr. Srikanta,

    Presently, I have no such plan to visit Gurudongmar.

    For any help you can always contact any good travel agency. They will guide you properly.

    Thanks – Susmita

  • jayati banerjee says:

    hi susmita

    as i was reading your write up i almost experienced the journey. very informative too.


  • susmita says:

    Hi Jayati,

    Thanks for your lovely comment. Much appreciated.

    Regards – Susmita Mukhopadhyay

  • pranoy says:

    hellow susmita i read your beautifull experience….& i want to visit there in february with my friends….i want to know that what will be problem to visit gurudongmar in february…..pranoy

  • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

    Hi Pranoy,

    Thanks for your time.

    In February, Gurudongmar will be too cold. Also chances are there the entire lake may be frozen. To see the blue beauty of the lake with white snow-capped mountains border I believe February is bit early.

    As it will be too cold, make sure to carry good quality warm clothes. Specially thermal inner. Keep yourself hydrated with drinking lot of water. Though, I guess you guys will be visiting Gurudongmar in car, but I would suggest you all to keep yourself healthy and physically fit. Else you may face high altitude problem. Should carry medicine after consulting with your doctor. These are the basic hygiene maintenance factor for traveling to mountains.

    Lastly, please respect mountain God and keep the environment and the nature nice and clean.

    All the best for your upcoming trip.

    Best wishes – Susmita Mukhopadhyay

  • Kavya says:


    Very well written post.
    Luckily last year I got the opportunity to visit Gurudongmar lake. I think its the most beautiful place I have ever seen.
    I have uploaded photo on blog:

    Also we went to Yumthang valley and Zero point, which was simply magical.

  • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

    Hi Kavya,

    Nice to get your comment. Nice to see all the images. You guys are lucky that you could reach till the end. I believe it is the Mountain God who ultimately take the decision that who should be given the permission to reach the end and who shouldn’t be. Gurudongmar lake is a holy place and reaching that place is definitely a privilege.

    Keep traveling, keep sharing.

    God bless you.

    Regards – Susmita

  • Alokesh Ray says:

    Hi Sushmita,
    I have read your blog of Gurudongmar lake trek & i found quite interesting & my best wishes with you for your next Gurudongmar lake trek plan.
    I have planed to go there with my wife in mid of March’ let me ask you Is it good time to go there?Because she is little bit scary of cold

  • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

    Hi Alokesh,

    March would be bit cold but it is expected weather should be fine. Carry enough warm clothes for better protection.

    Thanks – Susmita

  • Maitreyee says:


    I am planning to go Gurudongmar lake with my husband in the mid of feb,2015. Is it the good time to go there? Is there any problem of snow fall or anything which I should know before going there? please let me know.

  • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:


    My Gosh!! Hats off to you guys!!

    Please do a good research before you go.

  • Tanmay says:

    We r planning to visit Gorudongmar lake on next week(15th feb)..we know the weather will not be good as we expect but just want to know whether it is possible or not?

  • Debasis Mukhopadhyay says:

    Hi Susmita,

    I went through your entire journey/description of Gurudongmar Lake.You have a very good skill of storytelling.I require some information regarding my Gurudongmar Lake trip expected on 12th of April’15.
    We are two persons in count(Me and my wife).We dont have any regular breathing trouble but still whether an inhaler can be an taken as a precautionary measurement or not required.
    Second, as we know Gurudongmar Lake is the second highest lake in India.Just 5-6 Km above(45 mins drive) Gurudongmar, is Cholamu Lake,the highest lake in India.The roads are already there to Cholamu, but one can not visit the lake with the same permit of Gurudongmar Lake.It requires a special permit for going over there.But it is nothing like that no one has ever visited the place.In internet pics are available of the people who have successfully visited the Cholamu but I could not find any videos on YouTube.I am very curious about visiting the Cholamu Lake.5-6 Kms(45 mins drive) from Cholamu lake is China.Infact in this part India and china share the same platue.It would be nice if you can provide your valuable input over the same.Apart from my mentioned queries, if any other inputs come up to your mind,please dont hesitate to share those.Waiting for your reply…

    Debasis Mukhopadhyay

  • Dulal Sarkar says:

    Dear susmita,
    Please inform whether I can visit gurudongmar in the month of november.. My mother who is 55 years of age nd my son who is eleven years of age will be in the group along with others.. whether it will be ok and what precautions we should take..
    pleawe inform as we will finalise the tour upon your recommendations..

  • somnath dey says:

    Hi Mr. Dulal,

    In November gurudongmar weather will not be so bad. You can go with ur family except your 55 yrs mother as she might face breathing problem. I went there just 15 days ago. I didn’t take my son of 4 yrs old. But u can take ur of 10 if he is not too fatty.

    I kept my son and wife in lachen hotel.

  • Abhishek Kundu says:

    We are planning our gangtok tour from the starting of march.
    so is it possible to reach every places and have full freezed snow??
    the places are tsangu lake baba mandir nathula yumthung zero degree.
    thank u.

  • APURBA BOSE says:

    me and my friend are planing to go north sikim .. gurudongmar lake . youngthang vally … 0 point … by bike .. tentative date is 24 th october 2015 to go out for that trip .. kindly give me some guid line and tips all over to make that trip safely .and enjoyeble….

  • amit says:

    I am planning to go north sikkim and gorudongmar lake in middle of the march 2016 (12 march to 19 march ).but not able to make that pln. how to book hotels ,package and all .can you kindly suggest me to make a good plan

  • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

    You can Google – ‘Gurudongmar Trip Planning’ and you will be able to browse through various relevant site. You can check the available itinerary on net and can create your own plan.

  • Ashrith says:

    Nice write up. Even we faced a similar problem in December 2013. We were so close to the peak on our bikes but due to landslides we had to return. We had come from banglore in bike and it was very disappointing. Anyways we are going this April 2016 on bike. Let me know if you guys want to join us :)

  • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:


    April when are you guys planning. Please let me know. Will the lake be frozen during April?

    Thanks – Susmita

  • Tickets confirmed
    Sacks been packed
    Lets go to gurudongmar on 20th december
    Lets see i can make it or not.
    Thanks for the updates susmita.
    Hoping for the best .

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Yehhhh!!!! Abhijit.

      Great to hear about your plan. Just enjoy and have fun. Best of luck.


  • Suman das says:

    Hi Sushmita

    Right now I m at Gangtok and getting ready for changu lake.. tomorrow i will visit lachen.. i m mesmerized after reading your article.. I dont know how will be the weather there but right now Gangtok is 0℃ .. Any suggestions from you.

    Thank you.


  • Aakash Sharma says:

    Hello Sushmita,

    We made it till Gurudongmar lake this december 24th.

    It was very beautiful and amazing experience, it’s worth trying again.

    things that you had mentioned we almost had the similar experience though the rain wasn’t their but when we reached on top the air flow was way over 80 km/h it was literally dragging us back.
    Drivers up there don’t intend to take you ahead the road and most of times will ask you to return half way back giving silly excuses.

    Check my FB, I have taken some pictures, I hope you would like it.

    All the best.

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi Aakash,

      First wish you a Very Happy New Year.

      It’s great to hear that you made it till Gurudongmar Lake. I am still planning to give a second attempt. Hope to go back there soon.

      Just wanted to confirm that was the lake completely frozen during your visit? I am planning to visit sometime around April 2016.

      Additionally, provide your FB link so that I can check the images.

      Best wishes – Susmita

  • Tarun Bhattacharya says:

    We have planned to visit Gurudongmer lake in middle of march 2016. Whether it will be too cold then ?

  • Nripen says:

    Is it possible to visit Gurudongmar Lake in the last week of March. Is it safe?

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi Nripen,

      Even I am not sure. That time the entire lake might be frozen or the entire path might be completely covered with snow making it difficult for the trekker or visitors to reach the lake.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • Angana Chatterjee says:

    Hi Susmita.. It was such a pleasure reading your article.. My husband and I were planning to visit gurudongmar lake this may.. This is my first visit to Sikkim.. Could you plz tell if it is possible for us to find snow in gurudongmar around that time? Also are the breathing troubles severe? I have asthma and I am not sure whether visiting gurudongmar would be a good option?

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi Angana,

      I would suggest you to consult your doctor regarding the problem you have mentioned before visiting Gurudongmar lake.

      Even in month of May you might see little snow in surrounding peaks in Gurudongmar lake area.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • JINESH says:

    Hi.. lovely insight regarding changing weather conditions and chilly climate..
    We’re planning to visit the lake in October first week on bikes. Can you tell me about the scenario of permit and also if bikes rented from siliguri are allowed

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi Jinesh,

      Permit is given only on the day when you are planning to head for North Sikkim. Regarding hiring bikes from Siliguri, you must contact Bikers’ group.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • Could anyone pls advice quickly by 25th April 2016, whether a small car is advisable or a Jeep/SUV? Why it is recommended…

    To me (as a lay man), if the roads are narrow /thin, then a small car would be able to manage well than a SUV… Small cars would have low ground clearance which makes them having less chance to topple… I understand that SUV/SUMO would have more power and able to overcome potholes, and bad roads… but I am more concerned about slipping off cliff or topple…

    Small Car I meant Maruti Alto… SUV meant by Mahindra Bolero or SUMO

  • Jayanta biswas says:

    I will planing to go gurudomar lake in next year March with my friends. ….is it perfect time to go out there?

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi Jayanta,

      That should be a perfect time to go. Sometimes there could be sudden snowfall. If not then March is the beginning of the season. Hence, you should enjoy.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • Sambuddha Sarkar says:

    Hi Susmita,

    First of all I congratulate you for achieving so much and travelling to so many places in the Himalayas. I am from Serampore, a 2nd year student. I too have been to many places in the Himalayas right from Gangotri, Gomukh, Sandakphu and many others.

    Right now I am planning for a trip to Guruodongmar along with my family in the month of Dec-Jan. What is the feasibility of reaching there at that time and getting snow there? (I am a bit of snow freak actually and believe those places have a different avatar during the winter season).
    Need your advices.

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:


      I am not sure whether Gurudongmar road will be kept open for visitors on Month of December – January. You can check with local agency.
      Army may not allow people to go up if it’s snowing.

      However, during month of March can be a suitable option to visit that place.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • Sachin says:

    Hi Susmita,

    Thanks for sharing your valueable experience with us.
    Can you please tell me will it be safer to visit Gurudongmar in september last week. I am talking about the probability of landslides

    Thanks in advance

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi Sachin,

      September might not be a good idea to visit Gurudongmar. You can visit Gurudongmar post monsoon.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • S dev says:

    Mam as far as I know cholamu lake the source of Tista river which is only 10km far from gurudangmar is the highest lake of India … am I wrong mam?

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi S Dev,

      You are correct. Cholamu Lake is one of the highest lakes in the world.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • samik says:

    cholamu is unreachable until or unless u r an army person .. its 7 kms from gurdongmar … we are going to visit gurdongmar on 21st July once again

  • Harshit Sharma says:

    Hello! I hope u r doing good n planning to retrace the most beautiful untraveled land or u can say to drive at the hearts of Himalayas.
    Whoa! Whoa!! Well after reading your adventurous experience that u have gone through. It was really amazing to read this.
    Last year this happens same with me. My family traveled almost the best points in Sikkim, but sadly I was not able to go to Gurudongmar lake as the same happens with you we have stopped at the last base camp of army from where the Gurudongmar lake is few kms left.

    Secondly, we also traveled to Lachung very next day to view & visit the most beautiful place in India “Yumthang Valley” where you can see the N numbers of flowers. Here also the breathing problem starts with my family. So we left untraveled this too.

    But it is never too late to start.
    I wish I could again visit these fantastic adventurous places with more energy & great fitness.
    Because I never left the things undone..
    Wish me luck & All the best to u..

    Happy Traveling! :)

  • Akash acharya says:

    We group of three students was planned for doing only Gurudongmar and Zero point, yumthang by staying lachung and lachen on september last.. but unfortunately we did nothing due to land slide in every road way to gurudongmar and zero point..
    Even we r very fortunate that we didn’t stuck when we saw the rocks were falling on the road and we save our life from a severe attack of land slide… we came lachung before complete our journey when only 7km away from zero point.

    • Susmita Mukhopadhyay says:

      Hi Akash,

      Sad to know that you and your friends couldn’t complete your journey. September wasn’t a suitable time to visit Gurudongmar. It was monsoon time. Hence chances of frequent landslides are too high. Best time to go is March-April and October.

      Thanks – Susmita

  • Abhishek shah says:

    I reached Gurudongmaar on 24th December, 2016.
    I made the trip on my motor bike-first mistake.
    My biker gloves was not meant for sub zero temperatures. When i reached Thangu it was -5C. My bike slipped twice on the icy road.
    Almost got myself killed.
    I have a broken little finger due to cold.
    Decided to return back 3-4 times.
    My bike’s engine was unable to produce the thrust to run due to lack of oxygen.
    It was my failed attempt,but something got me going, i reached Gurudongmar when the temperature was -17C.
    Yes i made it!!
    24th December 2016 is the day i will never forget.

  • Pratiksha says:

    Hi Susmita,
    I am planning to visit sikkim in the 1st week of may. Being from Mumbai I am not at all habitual to cold. I also shiever in normal AC. But I viewed the pictures of gurudongmar lake. And I badly want to go there. How cold the weather will be? What precautions to take for breathing problem for my parents? How much the climbing will be?

  • Sandesh says:

    Hi friends,
    I am planning visit to gangtok in summer (May or June). Is it best season to visit?


    Respected All,
    This year 1st of October I planned to visit North Sikkim with my family,kindly tell me about the road of North Sikkim’s,is it dangerous

  • Priya says:

    Hey friends,
    I am planning to vist gurudongmar on coming 17th oct. Can u suggest me something.?

  • Siddhartha says:

    We are planning to visit Yumthang Valley, Zero Point & Gurudongmar lake in the 1st week of June ’19. Can you tell us what will the weather be like at that time? Is it advisable to visit Gurudongmar Lake with 5 year old kids? What remedy can I find if suddenly one of the team members develops breathing trouble? How long will the trip from Lachen to Gurudongmar Lake and back will take in a car?

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